Hamsili Pilav (Hamsili Pilav) — Black Sea Anchovy-Wrapped Rice

• 800 gfresh anchovies, cleaned and butterflied (hamsi) (about 45–55 small anchovies; heads and bones removed)
• 6 gfine sea salt (for salting the anchovies)
• 300 glong-grain rice (rinsed until water runs mostly clear)
• 40 gunsalted butter
• 30 mlextra-virgin olive oil
• 180 gyellow onion, finely diced
• 25 gpine nuts (optional but traditional in many homes)
• 30 gcurrants (soaked in hot water 10 minutes, then drained)
• 20 gfresh dill, finely chopped
• 20 gfresh parsley, finely chopped
• 8 gfresh mint, finely chopped (optional but very Black Sea in spirit)
• 2 gground black pepper
• 1 gground allspice (a classic pilav note)
• 0.5 tspground cinnamon (about 1.3 g)
• 540 mlhot water (for cooking the rice (about 1.8x the rice by weight))
• 12 gcornmeal (to help release and add a faint crunch)
• 15 gunsalted butter, softened (for greasing the baking dish)
• 1lemon, cut into wedges

Instructions

1. 1

   Pat the butterflied anchovies very dry with paper towels, then sprinkle them evenly with 6 g salt. Let them rest for 10 minutes while you start the pilav; this seasons the fish and reduces excess moisture. Keep them chilled if your kitchen is warm.

2. 2

   Rinse the rice in several changes of cold water until the water is mostly clear, then drain well. This step keeps the grains separate so the pilav stays fluffy inside the anchovy crust. Set the drained rice aside in a sieve for 5 minutes to shed extra water.

3. 3

   Heat a wide pan over medium heat and add 40 g butter and 30 ml olive oil. Stir in the diced onion and cook for 6–8 minutes until translucent, not browned. Add the pine nuts and cook for 2 minutes, stirring constantly, until lightly golden and fragrant.

4. 4

   Add the drained rice and sauté for 3 minutes, stirring so every grain is coated in fat. Stir in the drained currants, black pepper, allspice, and cinnamon, then cook 30 seconds to bloom the spices. Pour in 540 ml hot water and add 6 g salt, then bring to a steady simmer.

5. 5

   Cover the pan and cook on low heat for 12 minutes, then turn off the heat and rest, covered, for 10 minutes. The rice should be about 90% cooked and still slightly firm because it will finish in the oven. Fluff gently, then fold in the dill, parsley, and mint so the herbs stay bright.

6. 6

   Preheat the oven to 200°C (392°F). Grease a 24 cm round baking dish (or similar 2–2.5 L dish) with 15 g softened butter, then dust evenly with 12 g cornmeal. This helps the pilav unmold cleanly and encourages a crisp, golden base.

7. 7

   Line the bottom and sides of the dish with anchovies, skin-side down, overlapping like shingles so there are no gaps. Leave enough length hanging over the rim to fold over later, because this creates the classic sealed ‘fish lid.’ If you have extra anchovies, reserve them for the top layer.

8. 8

   Spoon the herb pilav into the anchovy-lined dish and press it gently to remove large air pockets without compacting the rice. Fold the overhanging anchovies over the rice to cover it completely. Arrange any remaining anchovies on top in a tight spiral or rows for an even, handsome finish.

9. 9

   Bake for 30–35 minutes until the anchovies are cooked through and the top is deeply golden with crisp edges. Rest the dish for 10 minutes so the juices redistribute and the pilav sets for clean slicing. Run a thin knife around the edge, invert onto a plate, and serve with lemon wedges.