Kenyan Grilled Meat (Nyama Choma) — Charcoal-Roasted Goat with Kachumbari

• 1.5 kgbone-in goat shoulder and ribs (cut into large grilling portions)
• 2 tspfine sea salt
• 2 tbspneutral cooking oil
• 240 mlwater
• 2red onions
• 500 mlcold water (for soaking the onions)
• 3ripe tomatoes
• 1English cucumber
• 0.5 bunchfresh cilantro
• 1green chile
• 2lemons

Instructions

1. 1

   Trim only the thickest exterior fat from the goat, leaving enough fat to protect the meat during the long grill. Rub the meat evenly with 2 tsp fine sea salt and 2 tbsp neutral cooking oil, then let it stand at room temperature for 30 minutes while the grill is prepared.

2. 2

   Light a charcoal grill and let the coals burn until they are covered with gray ash and giving steady medium heat. Arrange the coals so one side is hotter and one side is gentler, because nyama choma cooks best with both searing heat and a slower roasting zone.

3. 3

   Mix 240 ml water with 1.5 tsp fine sea salt to make the traditional salt baste. Place the goat over the hotter side of the grill and sear it for 4 minutes per side, turning with tongs until the surface browns and the fat begins to render.

4. 4

   Move the meat to the gentler side of the grill and continue cooking with the lid partly closed if your grill has one. Turn the pieces every 10 minutes and brush lightly with the salt baste each time, cooking for 70 to 85 minutes until the meat is deeply browned and tender at the edges.

5. 5

   While the goat cooks, make the kachumbari by slicing the red onions very thinly and soaking them in 500 ml cold water with 0.5 tsp salt for 10 minutes. Drain well, then toss with diced tomatoes, diced cucumber, chopped cilantro, minced green chile, juice from 2 lemons, and 0.75 tsp salt.

6. 6

   Check the goat by cutting near the bone; the juices should run clear and the meat should pull from the bone with firm resistance rather than feel raw or rubbery. For a precise check, the thickest part should register at least 75°C on an instant-read thermometer.

7. 7

   Transfer the nyama choma to a board and rest it for 10 minutes so the juices settle. Chop it into bite-size chunks with a heavy knife or cleaver, keeping bone-in pieces for guests who enjoy them.

8. 8

   Serve the hot grilled goat immediately with kachumbari, ugali, and lemon wedges if desired. Nyama choma is traditionally eaten communally, so present it on a shared tray with small plates and let the smoky meat remain the focus.