Sautéed Reindeer (Poronkäristys) — Finnish Lapland Comfort Plate

• 600 gfrozen reindeer meat (partly thawed just enough to shave very thinly)
• 60 gunsalted butter
• 1yellow onion (thinly sliced)
• 250 mldark lager or mild beer (use water for a lighter traditional version)
• 7 gfine sea salt
• 1 tspblack pepper (freshly ground)
• 900 gpotatoes (floury variety, peeled and cut into even chunks)
• 150 mlwhole milk (warmed)
• 160 glingonberry preserves
• 160 gpickled cucumber (sliced)
• 4 sliceruisleipä (Finnish rye bread)

Instructions

1. 1

   Keep the reindeer meat partly frozen, then shave it across the grain into very thin slices about 2 mm thick. This half-frozen slicing technique is central to good poronkäristys because it lets lean game cook quickly without becoming tough.

2. 2

   Place the potatoes in a saucepan, cover with cold water by 3 cm, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Cook for 18 to 22 minutes, until a knife slides through the pieces with no resistance.

3. 3

   While the potatoes cook, heat a wide heavy skillet or cast-iron pan over medium-high heat and add 30 g of the butter. Add the sliced onion and cook for 5 minutes, stirring often, until softened and lightly golden at the edges.

4. 4

   Increase the heat to high and add the shaved reindeer in 2 batches, adding 15 g more butter if the pan looks dry. Let the meat sear briefly before stirring, because browning gives the dish its deep savory flavor.

5. 5

   Return all the reindeer to the pan with the onions, then add the beer, 7 g salt, and black pepper. Reduce the heat to low, cover partly, and simmer for 25 to 30 minutes until the meat is tender and the pan juices are concentrated but still spoonable.

6. 6

   Drain the cooked potatoes very well and let them steam in the hot pot for 1 minute to remove excess moisture. Mash them with the warmed milk, 30 g butter, and 4 g salt until smooth but not gluey.

7. 7

   Taste the reindeer and adjust only if needed with 1 g additional salt or 0.25 tsp black pepper. The finished poronkäristys should be buttery, savory, and lightly brothy rather than dry-fried.

8. 8

   Spoon mashed potatoes onto warm plates and make a shallow hollow in each serving. Ladle the reindeer and its juices over the potatoes, then serve with lingonberry preserves, pickled cucumber, and ruisleipä.