Estonian Jellied Pork (Sült) — Clear Pork Aspic with Garlic and Bay

• 1.2 kgpork hocks (skin-on, bone-in, cut into large sections)
• 700 gpork trotters (split lengthwise for better gelatin extraction)
• 500 gpork shoulder (boneless, cut into 5 cm chunks)
• 2.5 lcold water
• 1yellow onion (peeled and halved)
• 1carrot (peeled and cut into 3 pieces)
• 4 clovegarlic (lightly crushed)
• 2 leafbay leaves
• 1 tspblack peppercorns
• 6allspice berries
• 18 gfine sea salt
• 1 tbspapple cider vinegar (optional but traditional in some households for brightness)
• 8 slicedark rye leib
• 4 tbspprepared mustard
• 4 tbspprepared horseradish

Instructions

1. 1

   Rinse the pork hocks, pork trotters, and pork shoulder under cold running water, then place them in a large heavy pot. Cover with the 2.5 l cold water and let the meat stand for 20 minutes so surface blood releases before cooking.

2. 2

   Bring the pot slowly to a gentle boil over medium heat, then immediately reduce the heat to maintain a quiet simmer. Skim off all gray foam from the surface for 10 to 15 minutes, because careful skimming is what gives Estonian sült its clean, clear jelly.

3. 3

   Add the onion, carrot, garlic cloves, bay leaves, black peppercorns, allspice berries, and 18 g fine sea salt. Simmer uncovered very gently for about 3 hours, keeping the liquid just trembling rather than bubbling hard so the broth stays clear.

4. 4

   Test the pork by pulling at a hock with tongs; the meat should separate easily from the bone and the skin should feel very soft. If the meat is still firm, simmer for 30 minutes more, adding 250 ml water only if the meat is no longer barely covered.

5. 5

   Lift the meat, bones, onion, and carrot from the pot with a slotted spoon and place them on a tray. Strain the broth through a fine sieve into a clean saucepan, then let it stand for 5 minutes and skim excess fat from the top with a spoon.

6. 6

   Remove and discard bones, gristle that is too hard, and the spent onion. Finely chop or shred the tender pork, skin, and a little soft connective tissue, because these collagen-rich parts are essential for the natural set of authentic sült.

7. 7

   Return the chopped meat to the strained broth and bring it back to a brief simmer for 5 minutes. Stir in the apple cider vinegar if using, then check the seasoning by tasting 1 tbsp of broth after cooling it for 30 seconds; it should be pleasantly salty because cold foods taste milder.

8. 8

   Divide the meat evenly among small bowls, ramekins, or one shallow dish, then ladle over enough broth to cover the meat by about 1 cm. Tap each dish gently on the counter to release trapped air and distribute the meat evenly through the aspic.

9. 9

   Cool the sült at room temperature for 45 minutes, then refrigerate it uncovered until just cool. Cover the dishes and chill for at least 8 hours, or overnight, until the broth has set into a firm, sliceable jelly.

10. 10

    Serve the jellied pork cold, sliced or unmolded, with mustard, horseradish, boiled potatoes, and dark rye leib. For a traditional Estonian table, place it near rosolje or other cold salads rather than serving it hot.