Jeow Bong (ແຈ່ວບອງ) — Lao Chili Paste Relish

• 40 gdried large red chilies (stems removed; shake out most seeds for moderate heat)
• 8 gdried bird's eye chilies (stems removed)
• 10 clovegarlic
• 6shallots (peeled)
• 25 gfresh galangal (thinly sliced)
• 2lemongrass stalks (tender inner 10 cm only, thinly sliced)
• 4 leafmakrut lime leaves (center ribs removed, finely shredded)
• 60 mlneutral oil
• 45 mlpadaek (Lao fermented fish sauce, simmered and strained if very chunky)
• 30 mlfish sauce
• 45 gpalm sugar (finely chopped or grated)
• 20 gtamarind paste
• 60 mlwater
• 35 gdried buffalo skin (nang khwai, toasted or fried crisp, then very finely shredded)

Instructions

1. 1

   Warm a dry heavy skillet over medium-low heat and toast the large dried chilies and bird's eye chilies for 2 to 3 minutes, turning often, until they darken slightly and smell smoky. Do not let them blacken, because burnt chilies will make the jeow bong bitter rather than deep and roasted.

2. 2

   Transfer the toasted chilies to a bowl, cover them with 300 ml hot water, and soak for 12 minutes to soften. Drain them thoroughly, reserving none of the soaking liquid, so the finished relish stays concentrated and glossy.

3. 3

   In the same dry skillet, roast the garlic, shallots, galangal, lemongrass, and makrut lime leaves over medium heat for 8 to 10 minutes. Turn the aromatics frequently until the garlic and shallots are softened with browned spots and the lemongrass smells citrusy and toasted.

4. 4

   Pound the drained chilies in a large mortar until they form a coarse paste, then add the roasted garlic, shallots, galangal, lemongrass, and lime leaves. Continue pounding for 6 to 8 minutes, scraping the mortar as needed, until the mixture is mostly smooth but still has the rustic texture expected of a Lao jeow.

5. 5

   Heat the neutral oil in a small saucepan over medium-low heat, then add the pounded chili paste. Fry the paste for 8 minutes, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the oil stains deep red and the raw sharpness of the aromatics fades.

6. 6

   Stir in the padaek, fish sauce, palm sugar, tamarind paste, and 60 ml water. Reduce the heat to low and cook for 12 to 15 minutes, stirring often, until the relish thickens to a sticky jam that holds soft ridges when pushed with the spoon.

7. 7

   Fold in the finely shredded dried buffalo skin and cook for 2 minutes so it absorbs the chili oil and fermented seasoning. The texture should be thick, chewy, oily, and spoonable, not dry or crumbly.

8. 8

   Remove the saucepan from the heat and let the jeow bong cool for 20 minutes before serving. Spoon it into a clean jar or small serving bowl, and serve in modest portions with khao niaw because the relish is intensely salty, sweet, smoky, and spicy.