Persian-Style Tuna Pasta (ماکارونی با تن ماهی) — Steamed, herb-scented makaroni with tomato-tuna sauce

• 11.5 ozDry spaghetti (broken into thirds) (Or Persian makaroni noodles)
• 10.5 ozCanned tuna in oil, drained (About 2 standard cans; reserve 15 ml oil if desired)
• 7.1 ozYellow onion, finely diced
• 12 gGarlic, minced (About 4 cloves)
• 10.5 ozRoma tomatoes, grated or finely chopped (About 3 medium; include juices)
• 1.1 ozTomato paste (About 2 tbsp)
• 2 tbspNeutral oil (Plus 5 ml for the pot base if needed)
• 2 tspGround turmeric
• 1 tspBlack pepper, finely ground
• 2 tspFine salt (Use 1.5 tsp in sauce and 0.5 tsp in pasta water)
• 25 gFresh parsley, finely chopped (About 1 packed cup)
• 1¼ cupWater (Added to the pot during dam-kesh)

Instructions

1. 1

   Bring 2500 ml water to a rolling boil in a large pot and add 0.5 tsp (about 3 g) of the salt. Add the broken spaghetti and boil until just shy of al dente, about 7 minutes, because it will finish cooking during steaming.

2. 2

   Drain the pasta well and briefly rinse with 150 ml warm water to remove excess surface starch without cooling it too much. Set the pasta aside in the colander so it can continue to steam-dry while you build the sauce.

3. 3

   In a wide pan, heat 30 ml neutral oil over medium heat until it shimmers. Add the diced onion and cook for 8–10 minutes, stirring often, until golden and sweet rather than pale.

4. 4

   Add the minced garlic and cook for 45 seconds, stirring constantly so it turns fragrant without browning. Stir in the turmeric and black pepper and toast for 20 seconds to bloom the spices in the oil.

5. 5

   Add the grated tomatoes and cook for 6–8 minutes until the mixture thickens and the raw tomato smell fades. Stir in the tomato paste and cook for 2 minutes, pressing it into the pan to caramelize slightly for deeper color and flavor.

6. 6

   Add 1.5 tsp (about 9 g) salt and mix thoroughly, then fold in the drained tuna, breaking it into bite-size flakes. Cook for 2–3 minutes so the tuna absorbs the spiced tomato base, then turn off the heat and stir in the chopped parsley.

7. 7

   Return the empty pasta pot to the stove and add 5 ml oil to lightly coat the bottom. Spoon in a thin layer of the tuna sauce to protect the base, then add half the pasta and half the remaining sauce, repeating once more to create layers.

8. 8

   Using the handle of a wooden spoon, poke 5–6 holes down through the pasta to help steam circulate. Pour 300 ml water around the edges of the pot (not directly on top), cover with a tight lid wrapped in a clean towel, and steam on low heat for 25 minutes.

9. 9

   Turn off the heat and let the pot rest, covered, for 5 minutes to finish setting the texture. Fluff gently with a fork, mixing the layers without mashing, and serve hot with the browned bottom bits if they formed.