Kokoretsi (Κοκορέτσι) — Charcoal-Grilled Offal Wrapped in Caul Fat

• 350 glamb liver, cleaned (trim sinew and any greenish spots)
• 250 glamb heart, cleaned (remove valves and tough connective tissue)
• 250 glamb sweetbreads, cleaned (soaked and blanched; see instructions)
• 200 glamb kidneys, cleaned (split and remove core)
• 350 glamb caul fat (thawed if frozen; kept cold)
• 600 glamb intestines, cleaned (thoroughly washed; see instructions)
• 60 mlfresh lemon juice
• 45 mlextra-virgin olive oil
• 2 tspdried oregano
• 1 tspdried thyme
• 1 tspground cumin (optional but traditional in many households)
• 1 tspsweet paprika
• 1.5 tspblack pepper, freshly ground
• 2 tspfine sea salt
• 3 clovegarlic, grated (3 medium cloves)
• 0.5 bunchflat-leaf parsley, chopped (about 20 g leaves)
• 120 mldry white wine (for rinsing intestines; not all is absorbed)
• 60 mlwhite vinegar (for soaking and deodorizing)
• 2000 mlwater (for soaking and blanching)
• 1 leafbay leaf

Instructions

1. 1

   Clean and prepare the intestines with care, because this is what makes kokoretsi taste clean and not overly “barnyard.” Rinse the intestines under cold running water for 3 minutes, then soak them in 1000 ml water mixed with 60 ml vinegar for 20 minutes, swishing them occasionally.

2. 2

   Rinse the intestines again, then run 120 ml dry white wine through them by lifting one end and letting the liquid travel through the length. Turn them inside out if needed and rinse once more until the water runs clear. Keep them submerged in cold water while you prep the offal so they stay pliable and don’t dry out.

3. 3

   Prepare the sweetbreads so they cook tenderly and don’t taste bitter. Soak the sweetbreads in 500 ml cold water for 15 minutes, then drain and repeat once more with fresh water. Blanch them in 500 ml simmering water with 1 bay leaf for 3 minutes, then chill immediately under cold water and pat dry.

4. 4

   Cut the offal into even pieces so the spit cooks uniformly. Dice the liver, heart, sweetbreads, and kidneys into 2.5 cm cubes, trimming any tough membranes as you go. Keep the pieces cold on a tray so the fat stays firm and easier to wrap.

5. 5

   Season the offal with a bright, herbal Greek profile before skewering. In a bowl, mix 60 ml lemon juice, 45 ml olive oil, oregano, thyme, cumin, paprika, black pepper, salt, grated garlic, and chopped parsley. Toss the offal thoroughly and let it rest 15 minutes in the refrigerator so the seasoning adheres without “cooking” the liver too much.

6. 6

   Assemble the kokoretsi on a sturdy spit or thick metal skewer. Thread the pieces tightly, alternating liver, heart, sweetbreads, and kidney so the fat and lean balance each other. Compress the stack with your hands as you go to eliminate gaps, because gaps cause uneven cooking and drying.

7. 7

   Wrap with caul fat first to baste the interior as it roasts. Lay the caul fat over the skewered offal and wrap it around in overlapping sheets, covering the meat completely. Press gently so it clings, then chill the assembled spit for 10 minutes to help it set.

8. 8

   Wrap with intestines in a tight lattice, which creates the signature crisp exterior. Starting at one end, tie the intestine to the spit and wrap it around in spirals, then cross back in the opposite direction to form a net. Keep steady tension without tearing, and tuck the end under a few wraps to secure it.

9. 9

   Prepare a two-zone charcoal fire for controlled roasting. Bank the coals to one side so you have a medium-hot zone and a gentler zone, aiming for about 180–200°C at grate level. Place the spit over the gentler heat first, because kokoretsi needs time to render and cook through before it browns hard.

10. 10

    Roast slowly, turning frequently for even rendering and a crisp, blistered surface. Cook for 60 minutes over gentler heat, rotating every 2 minutes so the intestines dry and crisp without burning. Move to the hotter zone for 35–45 minutes, continuing to rotate, until the outside is deep golden-brown and the center is fully cooked.

11. 11

    Check doneness carefully to keep the interior juicy yet safe. The exterior should be crisp and the fat rendered, and the thickest center should reach 72°C when probed with a thermometer. Rest the kokoretsi for 10 minutes off the heat so juices redistribute and slicing stays clean.

12. 12

    Slice and serve in the traditional way for maximum crunch. Cut into 1.5–2 cm rounds with a sharp knife, keeping the slices intact so the lattice holds. Serve immediately while the exterior is crackly and the interior is hot and aromatic.