Pepes Ikan (Pepes Ikan) — Indonesian Banana-Leaf Steamed Fish

• 800 gskinless snapper fillets (cut into 4 equal portions)
• 30 mllime juice
• 6 gfine sea salt
• 8shallots (peeled and roughly chopped)
• 4 clovegarlic
• 3red cayenne chiles (stems removed)
• 6candlenuts (lightly toasted)
• 1 inchfresh turmeric (peeled)
• 1 inchfresh ginger (peeled)
• 1 inchgalangal (peeled and thinly sliced before blending)
• 2 stalklemongrass (tender inner parts only, thinly sliced)
• 1 tsptoasted terasi Indonesian shrimp paste
• 1 tspcoriander seeds
• 0.5 tspground white pepper
• 8 gpalm sugar
• 30 mlneutral oil
• 30 mlwater
• 2tomatoes (cut into thin wedges)
• 4scallions (cut into 5 cm lengths)
• 40 gkemangi Indonesian lemon basil (leaves and tender tips)
• 6 leafkaffir lime leaves (ribs removed and leaves finely shredded)
• 4 leafIndonesian bay leaves (also called daun salam)
• 2red chiles (thinly sliced for the packets)
• 4banana leaves (each about 30 x 40 cm, plus extra if torn)
• 8toothpicks

Instructions

1. 1

   Prepare the banana leaves by passing each leaf over a gas flame for 5 to 10 seconds per side, or by dipping them in boiling water for 30 seconds. This softens the leaves so they fold without cracking and also releases the aroma that defines pepes ikan.

2. 2

   Pat the fish dry, then rub it with the lime juice and 6 g salt. Let it stand for 15 minutes while you make the bumbu, then blot away excess surface moisture so the paste clings well.

3. 3

   Combine the shallots, garlic, cayenne chiles, candlenuts, turmeric, ginger, galangal, sliced lemongrass, toasted terasi, coriander seeds, white pepper, palm sugar, 4 g salt, oil, and water in a blender or mortar. Process or pound to a fairly smooth paste, scraping the sides often because the candlenuts and galangal need time to break down.

4. 4

   Coat each fish portion generously with the spice paste, using about one quarter of the paste for each piece. Add the tomato wedges, scallions, kemangi, kaffir lime leaves, daun salam, and sliced red chiles, pressing some aromatics underneath and some on top of the fish.

5. 5

   Lay one softened banana leaf on the work surface with the dull side facing up, then place one seasoned fish portion in the center. Fold the long sides over the fish, tuck the short ends underneath or fold them into a parcel, and secure both ends with toothpicks.

6. 6

   Arrange the parcels seam side up in a steamer basket, leaving a small gap between them so steam can circulate. Steam over briskly simmering water for 25 minutes, keeping the lid closed so the fish cooks gently in its own aromatic juices.

7. 7

   For the traditional smoky finish, heat a charcoal grill, grill pan, or dry skillet over medium-high heat. Grill the steamed parcels for 2 to 3 minutes per side, just until the banana leaves are lightly charred and the bumbu smells roasted.

8. 8

   Serve the pepes ikan still wrapped, letting each diner open a parcel at the table to enjoy the steam and aroma. Remove the daun salam before eating, and spoon the juices over hot nasi so none of the lemongrass and galangal-scented sauce is wasted.