Yakitori (焼き鳥) — Japanese Grilled Chicken Skewers

• 1.5 lbboneless skin-on chicken thighs (trimmed of large excess fat and cut into 3 cm pieces)
• 6large scallions (white and pale green parts cut into 3 cm lengths)
• 8bamboo skewers (18 to 20 cm long)
• 1 lcold water (for soaking bamboo skewers)
• 1 tbspneutral oil (for brushing the grill grate)
• 4 gkosher salt
• ½ cupJapanese soy sauce
• ½ cupmirin
• ¼ cupsake
• 1.1 ozgranulated sugar
• 1 inchfresh ginger (thinly sliced)
• 1 clovegarlic (lightly crushed)
• 1 tspshichimi togarashi (optional finishing spice)

Instructions

1. 1

   Place the bamboo skewers in 1 l cold water and soak for 30 minutes so they are less likely to scorch over the grill. While they soak, check that the chicken pieces are uniform in size because even cutting is essential for yakitori that cooks at the same pace.

2. 2

   Combine the soy sauce, mirin, sake, sugar, ginger, and garlic in a small saucepan. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, then cook for 10 to 12 minutes until the tare is glossy and reduced to about 180 ml.

3. 3

   Strain the tare through a fine sieve and discard the ginger and garlic. Divide the sauce into two bowls, keeping one bowl for basting raw or partly cooked chicken and the second bowl clean for final glazing and serving.

4. 4

   Pat the chicken dry with paper towels and season it evenly with 4 g kosher salt. Thread the chicken and scallion pieces onto the soaked skewers, alternating 4 to 5 pieces of chicken with 2 to 3 pieces of scallion on each skewer.

5. 5

   Prepare a charcoal grill for medium-high direct heat, or heat a gas grill to about 220 C. Brush the grate with 1 tbsp neutral oil, then arrange the skewers perpendicular to the bars so the meat touches the hot surface and the bare skewer ends sit away from the strongest heat.

6. 6

   Grill the skewers for 4 minutes without sauce, turning once, until the chicken begins to firm and lightly brown. Brush with the basting tare, turn, and continue grilling for 6 to 8 minutes more, brushing lightly after each turn so the sauce lacquer builds without burning.

7. 7

   Cook until the chicken reaches 74 C at the thickest piece and the scallions are tender with browned edges. If the tare darkens too quickly, move the skewers to a cooler part of the grill and continue turning frequently.

8. 8

   Brush the cooked skewers with the reserved clean tare just before serving. Serve immediately while hot, with shichimi togarashi on the side for anyone who wants a citrusy chile finish.